• Operating a snowblower requires some manhandling, grab the handles and twist and rock, if they creak like a cheesy lawnchair be wary.
• Look down at the lower end of the machine, things should be either welded or bolted, if you see sheet metal screws be wary.
• An electric start is nice if you have limited strength or your engine is not up to par. A good arm should be able to start a cold machine in 1 to 3 pulls. Remember that most starters are powered by house current and will only be usable with a power source nearby. If this is important you will want to find one with a battery system or stock up on extension cords. It's a fairly strong motor so check the manual for extension cord recomendations.
• There should be shear pins to protect the snow handling components. Ask to see where they are and make sure you will be able to handle replacing them when needed. I prefer loose fitting pins or bolts over the types that press in tightly. Keep spares on hand, a machines will usually come with a few.
• Long standing quality brand names are HONDA, SIMPLICITY, TORO and ARIENS. See my Links page.
• SEARS, MTD, YARDMAN, MURRAY etc. are so so at best.
• Regarding tires versus track style drive trains....My biased opinion is that I think it's a fad, probably concieved by a testosterone poisoned fan of Tool Time. A good "agricultural" or Chevron pattern tire (like a goad grader or big front end loader) is perfecty adequate and infinitely simpler over the life of the machine. I have two concerns about the tracks.
  • They add a number of parts to the machine and bring the the associated maintenance burden. Be sure to consider this in terms of cost and parts availability in the out years.
  • Due to the greater surface area they will be difficult for handle on all but the snowiest or iciest surfaces. This implies the need for a power turn feature and the use of it and you guessed it, more moving parts! Be sure to consider the strength of all potential operators.
  If you have a need for incredible traction then go for it. However there really is little value that I can see. The only purpose of the traction system is to bring the auger to the snow. We are not talking about plowing snow we are blowing it. If you have a significant grade plan to do your heaviest passes on the downhill legs if needed. Finally use tire chains only as a last resort, you and your machine will be greatful.
• Some time ago I came across an industry life expectancy figure of 11 years for a snowblower. I know that with care and attention that can be greatly exceeded, my favorite and most frequently used machine is over 30 years old. Keep this in mind when shopping and try to think in terms of "cost per year" if you can come up with the cash it will make the price of a good machine easier to swallow.
• If you are considering a used machine be prepared to pay for a good one. I've seen 15 year old machines selling for what they sold for when new!
• You can't go wrong with a Briggs and Stratton engine. Tecumseh engines are prone to throwing piston rods through the crankcase wall if the oil level drops at all. The Tecumseh speed control is not nearly as robust as the Briggs and Stratton either. Briggs & Stratton is now back in the snow blower engine business in a big way with overhead valve engines ranging from 6.5 through 13 horsepower. Given prices, contracts and market inertia it's anybody's guess how quickly they will regain market share. However if you shop around machines can be found with these engines.
• The best engines going forward are of the overhead valve (OHV) design. They are more efficient and will have the best parts availability in the out years since the classic "L-Head" (side valve) designs are being phased out.
• If you're considering a used machine here are some thoughts on that topics

TRACTOR ATTACHMENTS

The idea of having a snowblower attachment on the front of your tractor sounds like a lot of fun and if you have a big enough machine frankly it is a lot of fun, at least for a while. In general I feel you're better off with a separate walk behind snowblower for your winter clean-up chores unless you have a tractor big enough to handle a rear mounted blower. Based on having used quite a few attachments on a range of tractor sizes here are some thoughts.

• Attachments range from 30 inches though 42" or more in width. Given my table above of inches per horsepower it becomes apparent that you need to be well up into the teens before the machine will be good for much at all. Remember that this engine will be hauling you and a machine that is much heavier than a traditional snowblower.
• The cost of an attachment isn't that much less than a good walk behind machine.
• You will also have to augment traction somehow with wheel weights and/or tire loading solution and/or a weight box and probably tire chains. All cost more money and add various stresses to your tractor and in the case of tire chains you too. Be sure to follow your manufacturers recommendations on this to avoid a broken axle or damaged transmission.
• The rig will be big. Imagine having to work a small automobile though your snow removal paths, unlike a walk behind snowblower a tractor simply will not turn on a dime.
• If you run out of room and venture into un-cleared space you run the risk of getting stuck.
• You will be sitting and not generating much body heat. Add to that the fact that any blowing snow will land on your lap, and begin melting.
• So now you add a snow cab for more money and your visibility is reduced even with the little windshield wiper.
• When you have the attachment off of the ground there is a lot of weight on your front end and your steering components will work hard, shortening their lives.
• Mounting some of these snowblowers is not a trivial task, let alone if you decide to remove the cab with the seasons.

I hope this page is helping you to make a more informed decision. Perhaps you will avoid an expensive mistake and end up with an appropriate machine for your property that provides many years of service. If your reading here has been of value to you I hope you will consider leaving a token of your appreciation in the form of a donation to help support this site. Good luck with your purchase.

Buying Used

One alternative to buying a new machine can of course be buying a used unit. These purchases fall into several categories. Dealers will sell used machines, sometimes with a short term warranty. In some cases you can get a trade in machine in an "as is" transaction. The other option is a private sale. In this case you may see an advertisment in a classifed section, spot a machine with a sign at the end of a driveway or even hear of one by word of mouth.

The machines bought from a dealer with a warranty will of course carry a heftier price tag. I frequently see asking prices that are 50% to 75% of what a machine may have sold for 25 years ago! Given inflation this may mean paying $300. for a vintage machine that is strudier than most of what you can get today for 3-4 times that price. If you trust your instincts and are prepared to take care of such a machine it can be a decent value. The same machine in a private sale will probably sell for less than half of the above price. The difference being that you assume the risk and nothing special has been done to prepare it for continued service. Finally if you get a machine that is essentially OK but needs some element of work before it's fit for service you should expect to pay well under $100.

During my years in the buisness and now as a collector I have had a chance to spend quality time with many machines and a vintage machine that's entirely in it's original configuration is rare. Be on the lookout for home made replacement parts and other home brew modifications. On a newer machine you should expect it to be entirely factory with normal wear and tear.

Below I will outline some key things to look for when considering a used machine. The bulk of my experience is with Gilson machines but most of this will be universal. In addition to this section I strongly recommend reading my FAQ page and my draft of a Servicing Procedure, it points out many items I look for when doing triage and when I go through a machine to get it ready for front line service. If you're not comfortable checking these details then maybe you should see if you can get your outdoor power equipment technician to look the machine over or maybe buying used isn't your best choice.

• Open the gas tank and snif, it should smell like gasoline, not turpentine.
• Check the oil fill level, is it full? If the seller can fill it note how much it takes. If it takes more than say 4-6 ounces I'd say it's a sign of neglect. The oil may not be fresh but should not be jet black.
• Have the seller start the engine, Does it start in a few pulls? Does it idle" Does it run stready at full throttle? Bring the speed down to idle when warm and move the trottle to full speed quickly, does the engine stumble or pick right up? A cloud of bluish smoke that begins to clear in about 5 seconds after starting is generally not a big deal in a used machine.
• If it passes the above tests the engine is probably OK.
• Check the auger leads for major bends, twists and broken welds.
• Check the impeller for condition. The tips should be in such condition that they cup the snow and throw it up through the discharge. If they are bent backwards performance will be poor. This is probably the most critical thing to know. This is an expensive part and replacing it is not a trivial task.

Impeller Inspection
A Good Gilson 12" Gear Drive impeller It Gilson # 10408 and became cross referenced to LawnBoy/Toro # 741218. Check here for replacement information.	This is a new Gilson OEM 10-1/2 inch impeller It was Gilson # 14849 and became cross referenced to LawnBoy/Toro # 740011. Check here for replacement information.
The view to the left of the orange impeller shows major damage. Something caused the blades to get bent over backwards. They should look like the gold Gear Drive part shown above.	The impeller pictured above has worked long and hard or seen some debris. The blades have been bent backward. You can also see where the the back plate has begun to buckle inward down near the bottom of the picture.

• On single stage machines look at the general condition of the auger. If you can rotate it by hand (ENGINE OFF!) it should be true, the center shaft should not wander up and down with rotation.
• If you can remove the top belt guard inspect the condition of the belts. Check the condition of any tensioning rollers watching for worn bearings.
• Inspect the skids to see if they have any life left or will require immediate replacement.
• Inspect the scraper bar, is it mounted solidly or peeling away from the bottom of the bucket?
• Inspect the shear pins, do they look authentic?
• Does the machine have any obvious homemade fixes?
• Run the machine does the traction system work well? These vary way too much for me to get to specific here.
• If the wheels are pinned to the axel do they rock with a little play or are they rusted in place? Wheels that are rusted or swedged to axels can be one of the most difficult repair obstacles. See the FAQ page.
• Run the machine in snow, does it meet your expectations.
• I believe there is a law requiring that manufactures maintain parts availability for 7 years, most exceed this greatly, after all there can be good money made selling parts. There has been a lot of consolidating and shaking out among manufacturers in the last few years. Some may find it difficult to sustain all of the legacy machines in the field and part supplies may dry up sooner than in the past. Remember this when buying a used unit.

So there... do what you can. Not everything above is a cause to black ball a machine. It all depends what you want, what you're paying and what you are capable of repairing. I've only tried to give you some guidelines of things to watch for after that use your common sense and take your chances.